Scotland Fashion Week came to a heartfelt close this year with a celebration of Scottish creativity, and we were proud and delighted to be part of it. Thistle & Cloth made its runway debut with a fashion collection that created a bit of a stir. Our collection was noted for its wearability and style, with a distinctive tartan theme running throughout! It certainly did turn a few heads for its style, wearability, and unmistakably Highland flair.

Taking part in Scotland Fashion Week was a milestone moment for Thistle & Cloth, marking our official debut in the world of sustainable Scottish fashion.

The Scottish Great Kilt has experienced a notable resurgence in popularity over the past decade, and I suspect the hit TV series Outlander may have played a part in that, with people falling in love with the flowing folds, deep pleats, and heritage-rich style of this iconic garment. But what many don’t see is the careful craftsmanship involved in creating a traditional Highland kilt from scratch.

At Thistle & Cloth, each Scottish Great Kilt made is a celebration of Highland tradition, created by hand, using time-honoured methods and beautiful wool tartans. Here’s a closer look at what’s involved in making one of Scotland’s most recognisable pieces of Highland clothing.

Choosing the Fabric for a Scottish Great Kilt

A Scottish Great Kilt typically starts with four metres of double-width wool tartan, measuring around 150cm across. The choice of fabric is important. While thick tweeds can look impressive, they’re not always that easy to work with. A medium-weight wool or wool blend offers the best combination of structure, softness, and flow, perfect for achieving the traditional drape and swing of the great kilt.

We work closely with Scottish mills to source tartans that reflect both clan heritage and contemporary style. Each bolt of cloth carries its own story, and that’s part of what makes the kilt so special.

Measuring, Marking and Pleating

Once the fabric is chosen, measurements are taken to figure out how the kilt will sit on the wearer, which is usually just above the waist. That waist measurement is used to divide the cloth into three key areas:

• The front apron
• The back apron
• The central pleated section

The pleating process is where much of the artistry comes in. The fabric is folded by hand, with careful attention to depth and spacing. If the pleats are too deep, the fabric becomes bulky and difficult to wear. Too shallow, and the final look loses its volume and shape. Every pleat contributes to the overall balance of the Scottish Great Kilt, and no two kilts are ever the same.

Wrapping and Securing the Scottish Great Kilt

Traditionally, a Scottish Great Kilt is pleated flat on the ground, then wrapped around the wearer’s body while lying down. The unpleated sections of tartan are folded over the front, and a belt is passed underneath the back before being fastened at the waist. When the wearer stands, the pleats should fall naturally into place, creating the structured, iconic shape and drape of the great kilt.

Styling the Upper Section of a Great Kilt

Next is the slightly tricky bit, as there are several options. One of these is the old-fashioned “Highland way” favoured by Highlanders centuries ago to keep the harsh Scottish weather at bay. This can be achieved by simply lifting the top layer up over the shoulders and wearing it rather like a shawl!

The other option, more commonly worn these days, is created by taking the top layer from each side and carefully folding it, first back on itself, and then around to the back and tucked in!

If you’re up for a challenge, you can create pockets by folding the front sections back. It might take a couple of tries to get it just right, but don’t be discouraged, practice truly does make perfect!

Sneak Preview

I’ll be sharing more soon, but here’s a little peek of me prepping some cloth to get started. All of these images are taken locally in the Highlands of Scotland. I am so blessed to have such scenery on my doorstep! I’d love to see your attempts as well. If you’ve made a Great Kilt before, feel free to share your photos in the comments.

Let’s keep the tradition alive together!

We recently had a great time at the Scottish Game Fair at Scone Palace in Perth, where we had a stall. While there, we found ourselves discussing the Stone of Destiny—something that, to be honest, I’ve always been aware of, but I realised I didn’t know much about in detail.

As fate would have it, Hannah is currently making a kilt using the Stone of Destiny Tartan, woven by The House of Edgar. Given this connection between the legendary stone and our current project, I felt it was particularly worth writing about it.

The Stone of Destiny is one of Scotland’s most revered symbols of sovereignty. For centuries, the ancient, rectangular block of red sandstone has been at the centre of Scottish coronations, symbolising the legitimacy and continuity of Scottish kingship. Its history is filled with drama and intrigue, reflecting the complex relationship between Scotland and England and highlighting Scottish identity’s enduring spirit.

There are various tails associated with the stone. For example (my favourite), one has biblical origins, with some claiming it is the very stone upon which Jacob rested his head in the Book of Genesis. It is said to have travelled from the Holy Land to Egypt, Spain, and Ireland before finally arriving in Scotland, where it was housed at Scone Abbey in Perthshire. Here, it became the coronation stone for Scottish kings, a practice believed to have started in the 9th century.

The Stone’s significance was so profound that when England’s King Edward I invaded Scotland in 1296, he seized it and took it to Westminster Abbey in London as a symbol of England’s dominion over Scotland. It was placed beneath the Coronation Chair, where it remained for over 700 years, used in the coronation of English and later British monarchs. This act was a potent symbol of the English crown’s claim to sovereignty over Scotland and deeply embedded the Stone into the story of Scottish resistance and identity.

Then, though and behold, the Stone’s journey took a dramatic turn on Christmas Day in 1950 when four Scottish students covertly removed it from Westminster Abbey and returned it to Scotland! The act was celebrated as a bold assertion of Scottish nationalism. After several months, the Stone was recovered and returned to Westminster Abbey, but the event reignited Scottish pride and a growing movement for greater autonomy.

On 30^th November 1996 (St. Andrews Day), in a gesture of goodwill, the British government returned the Stone of Destiny to Scotland, to Edinburgh Castle, where it resided until 2019 when it was relocated to Perth Museum, and this is where it is currently. However, it temporarily made its way back to Westminster Abbey for the Coronation of Charles
III in April 2023.

The Stone of Destiny is not just a relic from the past but a powerful symbol of Scotland’s enduring quest for self-determination. Its history is a testament to the Scottish people’s resilience and ongoing struggle to preserve their national identity within the United Kingdom. The Stone’s legacy continues to inspire, reminding us of the deep roots of Scottish sovereignty and the pride of a nation that has fought to maintain its unique place in history.

Contact us for more details regarding the kilts we can supply.

In the 18th century, Thomas Rawlinson, an English ironworks owner in Inverness, commissioned a Small Kilt inspired by the Great Kilt but without its upper part.

His new design featured a tailored fit with sewn-in pleats, making it a less cumbersome alternative for his workers. This innovation marked the earliest documented instance of the Small Kilt, or Walking Kilt, which remains distinguished by its sewn-in pleats today. The idea that an Englishman invented the kilt has been contested, as it challenges traditional Scottish pride. Nonetheless, Rawlinson’s design quickly gained popularity, especially after its adoption by the Highland Regiments of the British Army, before becoming accessible to civilians.

How the Small Kilt Came into Being

Historical events significantly influenced the evolution of the kilt, notably the Dress Act of 1746. This act was implemented following the Battle of Culloden and the defeat of the Jacobite Rebellion, with the government banning Highland dress to prevent further uprisings. This prohibition period underscores the kilt’s resilience and cultural significance as a symbol of defiance and national identity.

Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, the kilt transformed into an emblem of Scottish pride. Its more refined and tailored fit made it suitable for formal occasions such as weddings and Highland gatherings. Concurrently, tartan patterns became more systematised, allowing for the creation of clan-specific tartans. Wearing one’s clan tartan evolved into a powerful statement of loyalty and heritage, reinforcing a sense of identity among Scots.

Personally, having worn the Small Kilt as part of my military uniform in the Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland, I developed a profound appreciation for its cultural and emotional significance. The pride associated with wearing the kilt is something that resonates deeply with me and many others who have donned this traditional attire.

At Thistle and Cloth, our mission is to pay homage to the kilt’s rich history and the journey of tartan. We aim to encourage future generations to wear tartan with pride, recognising its historical significance and the sense of identity it fosters. By celebrating the kilt’s past and enduring legacy, we hope to inspire a renewed appreciation for this iconic symbol of Scottish heritage.

With its practical design and cultural symbolism, the Small Kilt has become an integral part of Scottish identity. Its evolution from a functional garment for workers to a revered symbol of national pride underscores its importance in Scotland’s cultural tapestry. At Thistle and Cloth, we honour this legacy and strive to keep the tradition alive for future generations.

Contact us for more details regarding the kilts we can supply.

What is it about the Great Kilt that makes it so distinctively Scottish? How did this garment come to evoke such passion and pride? Understanding this requires us to travel back in time, tracing the kilt’s journey, which has been anything but straightforward.

The origins of the kilt as we know it today can be traced back to the late 16th century with the Great Kilt (Feileadh Mor) or Belted Plaid (Breacan an Fheilidh). This early version of the kilt resembled the modern kilt but included an additional piece that could be draped over the shoulder or used as a hood. Think of William Wallace in Braveheart or Jamie Fraser in Outlander.

The Advantages of the Great Kilt

The Great Kilt offered many advantages to Highlanders facing the harsh Scottish weather. It provided warmth and flexibility and could serve as a blanket for overnight missions. The fabric was quick-drying, which was particularly useful. Essentially, it was a single piece of wool fabric, about five yards long and two yards wide. To increase its durability, the cloth was soaked in hot water and beaten to make it thicker.

The sight of a kilt stirs a deep sense of patriotism and vividly depicts iconic Scottish history. Clan-specific tartans also emerged, giving wearers a sense of loyalty and honour, as the patterns represented their clans. By the end of the 18th century, the Great Kilt was replaced by the smaller Kilt we are familiar with today. It can now be found in museums or worn by reenactors, standing as a significant piece of Scottish history.

It’s important to remember the Dress Act of 1746, when the government banned Highland dress following the Jacobite uprising, which is something we will go into at a later date.

Understanding the kilt’s historical significance helps explain why it is such a powerful symbol of Scottish identity. The kilt has evolved from a practical garment to a marker of cultural pride and resistance, standing as a testament to the resilience and enduring spirit of the Scottish people. From the Great Kilt to the modern-day kilt, this iconic garment continues to inspire a deep sense of national pride and connection to Scottish heritage.

The kilt’s transformation from the Great Kilt to the modern version reflects Scotland’s broader history and cultural shifts. Whether displayed in museums, worn by reenactors, or donned by Scots worldwide, the kilt stands as a proud reminder of Scotland’s rich history and enduring legacy.

Contact us for more details regarding the kilts we can supply..

The Scottish kilt is a historical garment dating back to the 16th century. It has evolved from the “little wrap” feileadh beg to the “big wrap” feileadh mor over the centuries. It has evolved from a belted plaid into an intricately constructed garment, traditionally an 8m of cloth wrapped round featuring pleats at the rear.

Various hand stitching techniques are used, from the fell stitch, herringbone and slip stitch to the more intricate knot stitch used on the vent & opening. Men’s kilts traditionally have belt (sporran) loops. Generally, there are 3 straps (different colours available on request) and three fringe edges (but can be made with 1,2, 3 or whatever the requirements) and hangar tapes can be optional.

Each kilt is made to measure. A customer’s waist, height, and seat are taken to calculate the length of the kilt, and from there, the depth of pleats and the width of pleats at both the waist and seat are calculated, resulting in a truly personalised, made-to-fit garment.

In pictures, the ladies’ kilt is box pleated to the band, which means that the pleat hides all the vertical lines.

The boy’s kilt is an example of the stripe, which is where the pleats feature the same line down in each pleat. Used traditionally in military kilts, it gives a smart, regimented style.

The man’s kilt (in pictures) is an example to set; this is where the pleats continue across the rear, and complicated maths is required to calculate exactly what is needed to continue the pattern! 

Contact us for more details with regard to the Scottish Kilt.